Bring Your Animation to Life with an Overlocker See How it Works

Have you ever wondered how a serger actually works? All month long we're digging deep and learning to love our sergers. Last week I explained the difference between a serger/an overlocker and briefly covered what a serger does.Today you'll walk away with a clearer understanding of how serger stitches are formed and be able to recognize the different elements that help to create that perfect stitch. This specialty machine performs many functions simultaneously to create stitches. Let's get started!

As fabric is fed onto your machine, it meets the feed dogs first. The fabric is moved along until the knife trims the fabric edge. Next, the loopers and needles form the stitches on to the fabric edge, and the fabric is fed off the stitch fingers behind the needle. Now we'll take a closer look...

Feed System: First up, the feed dogs. As your fabric gets fed onto the machine it first reaches the feed dogs. Your feed dogs are the jagged metal teeth-like strips that are located on the stitch plate just beneath the presser foot. The feed dogs, needle plate, and presser foot all work together to move fabric along evenly. You may even notice a second set of feed dogs- some machines have a differential feed system which helps to prevent puckered or stretched seams. (We'll dive more into that later this month!)

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Cutting System: Seam allowances are trimmed with a movable knife. The knife or knives on your machine move at the same speed as your needle.

Loopers: Upper looper (figure a) and the lower looper (figure b) are used instead of a bobbin to form the stitches. These looper and needle threads lock together to sew seams or finish seams. Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric.

Stitch Fingers: Serger stitches are formed around one or two stitch fingers. These are small projections or prongs on the needle plate.

Free Overlocker Patterns

The threads lock around the seam to prevent fraying, and the machine also cuts off the seam allowance as it sews. Sergers are very fast and make sewing knits much easier! Do you currently have a serger of your own? Join our growing community, help cheer on a neighbor, or get troubleshooting help this month by sharing a picture of your machine or current projects with the #LOVEYOURSERGER on Instagram or Facebook.This article was co-authored by Sherri Miller. Sherri Miller is a Seamstress, Costume Designer, and the Owner of The Scarlett Seam. With more than eight years of experience, she specializes in wedding gown alterations and has extensive knowledge in pattern-making. Sherri received an Associate of Science in Costume Design from Chaffey College.

A serger, or overlock sewing machine, gives garments and other sewn objects finished seams. When using one, you get many things done for you; a serger will secure seams with an overlock stitch to cover raw edges and cut excess fabric. The overlock stitch is ideal to use on knit fabrics since it has built-in stretch. The most important part of using a serger is threading the machine properly, since it has between three to five spools of thread.

This article was co-authored by Sherri Miller. Sherri Miller is a Seamstress, Costume Designer, and the Owner of The Scarlett Seam. With more than eight years of experience, she specializes in wedding gown alterations and has extensive knowledge in pattern-making. Sherri received an Associate of Science in Costume Design from Chaffey College. This article has been viewed 97, 394 times.

How A Sewing Machine Works, Explained In A Gif

To use a serger, start by making sure your machine is turned off, then following the threading diagram to thread the upper looper, the lower looper, and the needles. Next, turn your machine on, and adjust the tension dials for the type of stitch you want according to your machine’s manual. When you’re ready to finish your seams, lift the presser foot lever up, turn the needle dial toward you, and push your fabric under the needles and the foot. Then, lower the presser lever, turn the needle dial back, and begin sewing, using the foot pedal to control your speed. For tips on how to test the tension on your machine before you begin sewing, scroll down!

To use a serger, start by making sure your machine is turned off, then following the threading diagram to thread the upper looper, the lower looper, and the needles. Next, turn your machine on, and adjust the tension dials for the type of stitch you want according to your machine’s manual. When you’re ready to finish your seams, lift the presser foot lever up, turn the needle dial toward you, and push your fabric under the needles and the foot. Then, lower the presser lever, turn the needle dial back, and begin sewing, using the foot pedal to control your speed. For tips on how to test the tension on your machine before you begin sewing, scroll down!

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